Posted on Leave a comment

🤵Suit or Tuxedo? How to care for them🤵

Introduction:

Welcome to Suits Avenue’s blog! Today we are going to talk about the difference between a suit and a tuxedo, when to wear them, as well as how to take care of them! 

Both are a pretty big financial investment and both are important for their own events. Taking the proper steps to care for them will ensure you get the most bang for your buck and that they last the longest! 

Check out our table of contents below to see everything we cover!

Table of contents:

  • What is a suit?
  • What is a Tuxedo?
  • Whats the difference between a suit and tuxedo?
  • When should you wear a suit?
  • When should you wear a tuxedo?
  • Rotating your Suit
  • Using a wooden hanger
  • Keep very little in your pockets
  • Use a clothing brush
  • Roll your suit
  • Steam your suit regularly
  • Avoid the dry cleaners
  • Covering your suit
  • How to fold your suit
  • Conclusion

What is a suit?

noun
  1. a set of outer clothes made of the same fabric and designed to be worn together, typically consisting of a jacket and trousers or a jacket and skirt.
mens suits

What is a tuxedo?

noun
  1. a man’s dinner jacket & vest.
     
3pcs Imported Suit

Whats the difference between a suit and tuxedo?

The primary physical difference between a tuxedo and a suit is the presence of satin.  Traditionally tuxedos have satin facing on the lapels, buttons, pocket trim, and a satin side stripe down the leg of the trousers.  Suits don’t incorporate any satin and usually have either plastic buttons or buttons faced with the same fabric as the coat (aka self buttons.)  Some modern tuxedo options have minimized the use of satin to a thin satin trim on the lapels and a thin satin bead down the pant leg, but the primary difference between the two is that tuxedos have satin on them and suits don’t.  Of course, to every rule there are exceptions.

When should you wear a suit?

  • Any business event, unless a different dress code is specified.
  • When an event calls for “informal attire”, “Standard business attire”, “International business attire”, or “Western business attire”
  • Anytime you want to let someone know you “mean business”
  • Any legal event such as a court date, meeting, or appointment. 
  • Any serious event such as a wedding or funeral, again, unless a different dress code is specified. 

When to wear a tuxedo:

If you’ve received an invitation to attend a formal affair and it notes “black tie” or “black tie optional,” it’s time to pull out the tuxedo. Traditionally, you should not wear a tuxedo before 6 p.m. since it is so formal. Generally, you won’t receive a black tie invitation for an event that starts before then, unless it’s a wedding. If you are in the wedding party, most likely you will be prompted to wear a tuxedo. As a general attendee, it’s unnecessary. Tuxedo shirts come with traditional pointed or wing collars, and you can pick either one. Decide if you want a simple or pleated front – either is acceptable. Make sure that the shirt is finished with French cuffs and that you are wearing cuff-links to complete the look. 

Click here to read about  being the BEST best man!

Now that we have gone over the differences between a suit and a tuxedo and the appropriate times to wear them, now we are going to go over how to care for them! Taking the proper steps to caring for your suit or tuxedo will ensure they last longer! 

  1. Rotate your suits!

If you wear the same suit every day, all day long it will never give the fibers time to relax or air out. It will always stay loose and never have the great “first fit” like it did when you first bought it. By rotating through your suits and giving each of them a few days to rest in the closet will make sure your suit is nice and crisp for your next formal adventure!

2. Wood hangers:

Using round, wood hangers will give the suit enough space for air to flow through and getting the smells of your every day out. It also helps keep the suit fitting nice and tight. The rounded edges mock the shoulder make so it won’t stretch the suit out, only create enough space for it to relax in the natural form.

Click here to read about making sure your suit and shirt match!

3. Keep very little in your pockets.

Do not overfill any of your pockets, inside or outside of the suit. Only carry your essentials, cash, business cards, or debit/credit cards. If you overload your pockets it will eventually change the shape of the suit and it will become more lose and unnatural.

4. Brush your suit with a clothing brush:

This will extend the natural fibers in the suit, allowing it to last longer. It also helps keep the fibers up allowing it to breathe more and not hold in strong odors from the day. Be careful not to over brush your suit though, this will cause the fibers to become too loose and eventually fall apart quicker.

5. Roll your suit:

Do this after brushing your suit. Rolling your suit will grab any loose fabric pieces or hair stuck on it. It is a little extra step that takes your look a long way!

6. Steam your suit regularly:

Steaming your suit opens up the fibers, removes stains and marks, as well as the smells from throughout the day. Dry ironing your suit will push the fibers down trapping all stains and stenches, so try to avoid ironing your suits!

7. Avoid the dry cleaners:

Dry cleaners shorten the lifespan of suits. They use strong chemicals to treat the suits so they are clean. It is only necessary to take your suit to the dry cleaners if you absolutely cannot get the stain or smell out of your suit by brushing it, airing it, or steaming it.

8. Cover it up:

When you aren’t wearing the suit, it should be on the wood hanger as discussed earlier, as well as in an appropriate suit bag. This will keep any bugs or dust from getting into the bag or onto your suit. It also protects it from any unfortunate events that may happen, and makes it easier to travel with.

Click here to read all about wool!  

How to: to travel-

Step one:

Lay the suit face down on a flat surface with the front up.

STEP 2

Flip the jacket over and fold the left shoulder back. towards the right.

STEP 3:

Turn the right shoulder inside out, then tuck left shoulder into the right.

STEP 4: 


Fold it in half lengthwise,  then fold it horizontally.

STEP 5: 


Place the folded jacket in the center of the outstretched trousers.

STEP 6:


Fold the trouser bottoms over the jacket and repeat with the top of the trousers.

Conclusion:

Thank you for reading Suit Avenue’s blog! Today we talked about the difference between a suit and a tuxedo, when to wear them, as well as how to take care of them and fold them! 

Both are a pretty big financial investment and both are important for their own events. Taking the proper steps to care for them will ensure you get the most bang for your buck and that they last the longest! 

Check out our table of contents below to see everything we cover!

Find us, Follow us, and like us on FACEBOOK for latest fashion Trends…

 

Click and SHARE…We would love to help your friends look smart…🕺💃 

If you have any questions

Our Blogs on Fashion...

🐑 All about wool🐑

Introduction: Welcome to Suits Avenue’s Blog! Today we are going to go over the ins and outs of wool!! See our table of contents below

Read More »
Posted on Leave a comment

🤵🏿 How to care for your suits🤵🏿

How To: Care for your Suit

Introduction:

Hi everyone, thank you for reading How to care for your suits with Suits Avenue! Today, we will go over the things you can do to add extra years onto your suits life! Suits aren’t a cheap investment, and if they aren’t cared for properly, they can last less than a year! Make sure to do a lot of research before making a big purchase on a suit!

You can click here to read about seeing the quality in your suit before you buy it!

Table of contents:

  • Rotating your Suit
  • Using a wooden hanger
  • Keep very little in your pockets
  • Use a clothing brush
  • Roll your suit
  • Steam your suit regularly
  • Avoid the dry cleaners
  • Covering your suit
  • How to fold your suit
  1. Rotate your suits!

If you wear the same suit every day, all day long it will never give the fibers time to relax or air out. It will always stay loose and never have the great “first fit” like it did when you first bought it. By rotating through your suits and giving each of them a few days to rest in the closet will make sure your suit is nice and crisp for your next formal adventure!

2. Wood hangers:

Using round, wood hangers will give the suit enough space for air to flow through and getting the smells of your every day out. It also helps keep the suit fitting nice and tight. The rounded edges mock the shoulder make so it won’t stretch the suit out, only create enough space for it to relax in the natural form.

Click here to read about making sure your suit and shirt match!

3. Keep very little in your pockets.

Do not overfill any of your pockets, inside or outside of the suit. Only carry your essentials, cash, business cards, or debit/credit cards. If you overload your pockets it will eventually change the shape of the suit and it will become more lose and unnatural.

4. Brush your suit with a clothing brush:

This will extend the natural fibers in the suit, allowing it to last longer. It also helps keep the fibers up allowing it to breathe more and not hold in strong odors from the day. Be careful not to over brush your suit though, this will cause the fibers to become too loose and eventually fall apart quicker.

5. Roll your suit:

Do this after brushing your suit. Rolling your suit will grab any loose fabric pieces or hair stuck on it. It is a little extra step that takes your look a long way!

6. Steam your suit regularly:

Steaming your suit opens up the fibers, removes stains and marks, as well as the smells from throughout the day. Dry ironing your suit will push the fibers down trapping all stains and stenches, so try to avoid ironing your suits!

7. Avoid the dry cleaners:

Dry cleaners shorten the lifespan of suits. They use strong chemicals to treat the suits so they are clean. It is only necessary to take your suit to the dry cleaners if you absolutely cannot get the stain or smell out of your suit by brushing it, airing it, or steaming it.

8. Cover it up:

When you aren’t wearing the suit, it should be on the wood hanger as discussed earlier, as well as in an appropriate suit bag. This will keep any bugs or dust from getting into the bag or onto your suit. It also protects it from any unfortunate events that may happen, and makes it easier to travel with.

Click here to read all about wool!  

How to: to travel-

Step one:

Lay the suit face down on a flat surface with the front up.

STEP 2

Flip the jacket over and fold the left shoulder back. towards the right.

STEP 3:

Turn the right shoulder inside out, then tuck left shoulder into the right.

STEP 4: 


Fold it in half lengthwise,  then fold it horizontally.

STEP 5: 


Place the folded jacket in the center of the outstretched trousers.

STEP 6:


Fold the trouser bottoms over the jacket and repeat with the top of the trousers.

Find us, Follow us, and like us on FACEBOOK for latest fashion Trends…

 

Click and SHARE…We would love to help your friends look smart…🕺💃 

If you have any questions

Our Blogs on Fashion...

🐑 All about wool🐑

Introduction: Welcome to Suits Avenue’s Blog! Today we are going to go over the ins and outs of wool!! See our table of contents below

Read More »
Posted on Leave a comment

👰🏿How to be the BEST, best man!🤵🏿

Introduction:

Hi! Welcome to Suits Avenue’s Blog! Today we are going to go over the in’s and out’s of being a best man at a wedding! It’s one of the greatest honors in life to be asked to be a friend or relative’s best man at their wedding. It’s a role that comes with some key responsibilities as well, so it’s not something to be taken lightly. When you accept the offer, you’ll be feeling proud and pleased, but this can soon give way to anxiety and stress if you don’t get your tasks sorted out as efficiently and promptly as possible. Therefore, you should have a plan of what you need to do and when each task needs to be completed to keep you on track and up to the mark. In this blog hopefully we will help you get on the right track to help the bride and groom enjoy one of the best moments of their lives! Check out the table of contents below to see everything we cover!

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

  1. Clothes
  2. Best Man responsibilities
  3. Bachelor Party
  4. Putting your outfit together
  5. Accessories
  6. Conclusion
Italian and Turkish Suits

Clothes:

Amongst their other responsibilities, the best man is normally in charge of organizing suit fittings and hiring apparel that isn’t going to be bought. What the wedding party wears will be crucial to the success of the event, so you need to be clear about what the groom wants to wear and how his groomsmen should be dressed. Organizing a trip to a tailor for selection and fitting of your outfits should be done well in advance to avoid running out of time if there are any delays. Often grooms (or their future wives!) have clear ideas about the type of suit they should wear for the big day, but it’s still a good idea to be thorough in your research and look at all the alternatives. You’ll also need to manage the distribution of buttonholes and flowers for the wedding party, and liaise with the chief bridesmaid or matron of honor to ensure everyone is properly attired. In addition, you should arrange collection and distribution of the suits when they are ready, and the return of the clothing after the wedding.

This means we are discussing the essential accessories that will provide the final, perfect touch to your wedding day outfit. Below are tips and tricks for finding the right shoes, cufflinks, tie, belt, and cummerbund – and whether or not you should have any of these custom made.

Imported Blazer Wool

Basics:

You will need a matching shirt, pants, jacket and belt to start your suits out right. You can click here to read about making sure they match! 

Accessories:

VEST:

The vest is optional, but if the wedding is more traditional, they will probably request all of the groomsmen wearing them. The vest can be one of the more bold accent colors. It will really stand out if you have a light shirt and dark vest or dark shirt and light vest.

CUFF LINKS:

These are necessary not only to make a fashion statement but also to help keep your jacket sleeves nice and tight against your wrist. 

TIE AND POCKET SQUARE:

Your tie and pocket square don’t necessarily need to match, but for a wedding… it is usually best. They can match the vest if you are wearing one, or they can be the accent in your outfit!

Blazers

Bachelor party

The best man is responsible for throwing a suitable bachelor party for the groom and all his friends before the wedding. The best bachelor parties aren’t necessarily those where everyone drinks far too much, and the groom ends up chained to a lamp post wearing ladies’ underwear! That kind of night might be right up the groom’s street, but if not, then there are plenty of alternative ways to make this a special day. Escape Rooms are becoming more commonplace, and provide an ideal mix of action and distraction, as well as being highly entertaining. Many experiences only take an hour or so to complete – if you can unravel the mystery! After completing the escape room challenge, you could then head into town for a meal, and follow this up with a club or bar. If drinking isn’t your party’s thing, then games night, movie night, a sports event, or an outdoor challenge like a camping trip to the forest might be a better way of spending the day.

Couples generally hope that their wedding day will be a once in a lifetime experience, and that being the case it’s important that you take your role as best man seriously and make every effort to ensure the bride and groom enjoy the day as much as possible.

PUTTING YOUR OUTFIT TOGETHER:

Start with a matching nice slim fit blazer and dress pants! You want them to flow nicely with your body, Click here to see another local blog on how to wear the proper suit.

Imported Blazer Wool

Next find a nice dress shirt for underneath, for formal occasions like a wedding a white or navy blue is best.

Imported Ties

Shoes and ties are the next stop. If your undershirt has a pattern you will want a solid tie or vice versa. If you choose to both have a pattern make sure they vary in size and design. You can never go wrong with a nice shiny black pair of dress shoes.

We import quality menswear for all occasions – one of those important occasions could be your wedding and you will face important decisions about what you and your groomsmen should wear. This post is going to provide 7 great tips that you can follow as you prepare to dress the groomsmen for the big day!

Light Charcoal Wool Suit

Talk to your spouse about what the bridesmaids are wearing. 

Obviously you should consult your other half about the wedding before making any big decisions. To create a cohesive wedding you will want to coordinate outfits for the bridesmaids and groomsmen that complement each other in a certain way. They don’t have to match entirely – unless you want them too! – but it will help you plan your own outfits accordingly. It can even just involve one common color. Speaking of color…

Start with Color

Whether or not you require a full consultation with fully customizable tuxedoes or you are going to a bridal shop to pick something off the rack, you should always start with a certain color in mind. You can bring in a picture of what the bridesmaids are wearing, a color swatch, or at the very least an idea of what color you should be looking for. If you decide to shop online this can be made even simpler as most online stores allow you to search by color. When in doubt – seek advice and stick to original color with a simple, good looking fit.

Imported Blazer Wool

Slim fitting suits look great on a variety of body types

The important thing to know about the slim fitting suit is that it looks great on a variety of shapes and sizes. This is because they look crisp and tailored with a flattering style that creates a nice, clean, cohesive look. 

Don’t be afraid of the casual look

Some men can pull this off well. If you are confident in your own style and what the bridesmaids are wearing don’t be afraid to put your own spin on the casual look. This can translate into bow-ties and suspenders or just simply shedding the tradition of the three piece suit. Dressing the wedding ushers in casual attire is another fun way to incorporate this look into the wedding without disrupting how the groomsmen are dressed. 

Get Professional Measurements

With all the stress of the wedding the last thing you want to worry about is the fit. That is why you should get professionally measured by a tailor to ensure the very best fit possible. You will still have to worry about the color and the style but ensuring a good fitting suit will take one less worry off your plate. 

Click here to read everything about suits! 

Trust Your Groomsmen

If you are confident in your groomsmen and are not concerned with wearing matching suits then don’t be afraid to let your groomsmen take the reigns and pick their own suit. Set some parameters – but letting them pick something on their own will no doubt result in an outfit that is more comfortable for them to wear for long periods of time. You can still have the final call but this is a great way to let your groomsmen have some fun.

If these tips don’t help and you are totally lost on what you want – don’t be afraid to keep it simple! A lot of couples decide to have the groom and groomsmen all in the same suit/tux, with white or ivory shirts underneath. And then you can have them wearing matching ties with differing pocket squares or identical pocket squares and mismatched ties. If you want to have more fun with it you can decide to have the men in colored shirts or have fun, patterned ties. If you’re open to having fun with it – the more pattern, the more relaxed the wedding.

Don’t forget the smaller details!

Light Charcoal Wool Suit

Cufflinks: these are an essential accessory for any groom, and if you are going the traditional wedding route there is a particular detail about them that you are going to want to know. According to Wedding Wire  “traditionally, men received cufflinks as gifts on special occasions. It’s said that a man should never buy his own cufflinks. Perhaps you could hint at your loved ones that you’ll need a pair of special cufflinks for your wedding.” However, you can still buy your own so make sure your cufflinks represent you and provide a crisp complement to your wedding shirt. Remember to wear a shirt with French cuffs and no buttons on the cuffs so that you can fasten them with cufflinks.

Belt: This is where the decision to get your suit custom made or tailored comes in. If you have made-to-measure trousers there is no need for a belt as the pants will be suited to fit you perfectly, at that point a belt would detract from your perfectly polished image you are projecting on the wedding day.

Conclusion:

These accessories will be the final touches on the perfect traditional wedding look. They are timeless and provide the perfect look for your wedding and classic wedding photos. But every wedding is different and in today’s environment the casual look is often a viable alternative to the traditional wedding. So explore what is right for you and don’t forget to stay tuned to our website and the Suits Centre blog for more wedding season tips and topics on suits.

WE WANT TO KNOW, WHAT YOU WANT TO READ!

Find us, Follow us, and like us on FACEBOOK for latest fashion Trends…

 

Click and SHARE…We would love to help your friends look smart…🕺💃 

If you have any

🐑 All about wool🐑

Introduction: Welcome to Suits Avenue’s Blog! Today we are going to go over the ins and outs of wool!! See our table of contents below

Read More »
Posted on Leave a comment

🤵Everything about suits🤵

Introduction:

Hello everyone, thank you for reading this weeks edition of Suits Avenue’s blog! Today we are going to go over the complete guide to suits! The table of contents is below, feel free to scroll around or  read the whole thing!! Stop on in the store today for all your suit needs!

Table of Content:

  • The fit
    • Shoulders
    • Pant bottoms
    • Jacket Collar
  • Button Rules
  • Types of Suits
    • Single breasted
    • Double breasted
  • Seeing the quality
    • 100% wool
    • The lining
    • The stitching
    • Details
    • Colors
  • The pinch test
  • Properly storing your suit
  • Cleaning & maintaining your suits
  • Folding your suits
  • Conclusion

The Fit:

When you try on a suit, try to stand in your “Natural stance” this would be how you stand the most often. Just let your body stand natural, your muscle memory will help you with this. 

You don’t want the suit to be too loose or too tight, pay extra attention to where your major joints are (Elbows, Shoulders, Hips, Knees, Etc.) If the clothes are too tight you won’t be able to use your full range of motion. If the clothes are too loose, they will be baggy and bunch up in those main key places. You also don’t want the sleeves to pass your wrist too far or the pants to be so long the fabric goes underneath your shoes.

Italian and Turkish Suits
Suits Avenue Shoulders first

Shoulders-

A well-fitted shoulder lies flat. The seam on top of the shoulder should be the same length as the bone under it, and should meet the sleeve of the suit right where your arm meets your shoulder.

If the seam that connects the sleeve to the jacket is hiked up along your shoulder bone, or dangling down on your upper bicep, the jacket is never going to sit properly. In these instances, you’ll see “ripple effects” that create lumps or wrinkles on the sleeve and the top of the jacket. If you can’t move your arms well, or if you cannot pinch just the jacket, it is too small. If the shoulder seam of the jacket is below your shoulder, or the sleeves run farther than 1/2 an inch past your wrist than the jacket is too big.

Click here to read our leather shoe guide!

Pant Bottoms-

The trouser break is the bottom of your pants, below the pants cuff. Pants have a couple signs of them being too big or too small. Sometimes the most obvious one is the trouser break, they should rest slightly on the top of your shoes.  If it doesn’t go to the top of your shoes it is too small, and if it goes below the middle of your heel it is too big. You don’t want your pant bottoms to drag on the ground, you will step on them, they will rip and tear and it looks tacky. Looking Tacky isn’t ideal when wearing a suit!

Jacket Collar-

The jacket collar should rest easily on the back on your neck and shoulders. If it hangs farther back, or is bunched up causing “ripples” behind your neck, the jacket is too big. If it is tight and has little scrunches the jacket is too small. 

When your jacket is buttoned make sure it isn’t making an “x” as shown above. This means the jacket is too tight! It is pulling all the extra fabric it can find to make the button fit.

Click here to read about being the BEST best man 

Button Rules-

  • The one-button single-breasted suit jacket: Generally used on a tuxedo. These jackets are suited to lean men and worn for black tie events. They are not versatile.
  • The two-button single-breasted suit jacket: Is one of the most classic looks in men’s fashion. This style of suit looks good on all body types.
    The cut of the suit makes just about every man’s frame look longer. Two-button suits are great for both social and business events.
  • The three-button single-breasted suit jacket: Because of the arrangement of the buttons – three button suit jackets suit taller men.

A word on the rules of buttoning a single breasted jacket:

  • One button: Always closed except when sitting.
  • Two buttons: Use the top one and leave the second button undone.
  • Three buttons: Button the center and top ones and leave the third button undone.

Never button the bottom button of a suit jacket.

Types of Suits:

Imported Boys Blazers

Single Breasted:

singlebreasted shirt or jacket has a narrow overlap and only one column of buttons. Single-breasted suit jackets and blazers typically have two or three buttons (jackets with one or four buttons are less common), and a notch lapel.

Double Breasted:

doublebreasted garment is a coat, jacket, or vest with wide, overlapping front flaps which has on its front two symmetrical columns of buttons. Double-breasted suits have a more sophisticated look.

Seeing the quality in your suit:

100% Wool:

The first sign to look for regardless of where you buy your suit from is the fabric quality.  The only words you want to see are “100% Wool.” If you do not recognize the name of the fabric it is being made of or if it is a concoction of multiple different fabrics, RUN! If you buy something with multiple different fabrics together the chances are it is going to fall apart quickly and last you about 1 nice event… maybe 2.

Click here to read all about wool!

The Lining:

Look at the lining- A fused lining that’s held together with glue is about as bad as going for a $99 polyester suit. The cheapest quality suits will have a fused lining. The highest quality suits will have a full canvas or at least a half canvas.

Stitching:

Check out the stitching- The ability for mass-manufacturers to replicate what used to be hallmarks of a custom suit has never been greater. With that said, you still want to examine the quality of the craftsmanship and look to see how the suit comes together.

You do not want a suit with jagged, loose, crooked stitching. If the stiching is messy and loose it was probably made quickly and it will not last very long. If you are in a tight spot and can’t afford a high quality suit, just make sure to be careful. Cheaper suits will not last going to the dry cleaners.

PAY ATTENTION TO THE DETAILS:

 From the way the pockets come together, to the drape, the buttonholes, and the boutonniere loop. Each of these small details often have the biggest impact when it comes to how you look. Machine-sewn pockets aren’t as sturdy and will wear quickly when utilized. Stiff lapels without a slight roll are a hallmark of a cheap suit. Plastic buttons can break, and even horn buttons that use plastic anchors can fall off in the middle of your board meeting.

PAY ATTENTION TO HOW IT WAS COLORED:

The last thing you want is to leave the store with a great navy suit and have it look four shades of blue by next summer. Look at the design. How is it dyed? Is it even and are the colors vivid? Will they fade? Is the pattern perfectly done across the suit, or are they misaligned where the fabric was cut?

Bottom line: look closely and pay attention.

Click here to read about seeing quality in your suit!  

HOW TO TELL A CANVASSED VS. FUSED JACKET – THE “PINCH TEST”

It’s easy to check whether the suit jacket you’re looking at is fused or canvassed. Simply pinch the chest fabric and lining between the fingers of each hand and pull them apart slightly. If it’s canvassed, you should be able to feel three distinct layers: the outside fabric, the canvas, and the lining. If it’s fused, you’ll only feel two layers. To distinguish between Full and Half Canvassing, perform the same pinch test down by the buttons.

How to Store your suits:

Rotate:

If you wear the same suit every day, all day long it will never give the fibers time to relax or air out. It will always stay loose and never have the great “first fit” like it did when you first bought it.

Round, wood hanger:

Using round, wood hangers will give the suit enough space for air to flow through and getting the smells of your every day out. It also helps keep the suit fitting nice and tight. The rounded edges mock the shoulder make so it won’t stretch the suit out, only create enough space for it to relax in the natural form.

Cover it up:

When you aren’t wearing the usit, it should be on the wood hanger as discussed earlier, as well as in an appropriate suit bag. This will keep any bugs or dust from getting into the bag or onto your suit. It also protects it from any unfortunate events that may happen, and makes it easier to travel with. 

How to Clean/Maintaine your suits:

Brush your suit with a clothing brush:

This will extend the natural fibers in the suit, allowing it to last longer. It also helps keep the fibers up allowing it to breathe more and not hold in strong odors from the day.

Roll your suit:

Do this after brushing it. Rolling your suit will grab any loose fabric pieces or hair stuck on your suit. It is a little extra step that takes your look a long way!

Steam your suit regularly:

Steaming your suit opens up the fibers, removes stains and marks, as well as the smells from throughout the day. Dry ironing your suit will push the fibers down trapping all stains and stenches, so try to avoid ironing your suits!

Avoid the dry cleaners:

Dry cleaners shorten the lifespan of suits. They use strong chemicals to treat the suits so they are clean. It is only necessary to take your suit to the dry cleaners if you absolutely cannot get the stain or smell out of your suit by brushing it, airing it, or steaming it.

How to fold your suit:

Step one:

Lay the suit face down on a flat surface with the front up.

STEP 2

Flip the jacket over and fold the left shoulder back. towards the right.

STEP 3:

Turn the right shoulder inside out, then tuck left shoulder into the right.

STEP 4: 


Fold it in half lengthwise,  then fold it horizontally.

STEP 5: 


Place the folded jacket in the center of the outstretched trousers.

STEP 6:


Fold the trouser bottoms over the jacket and repeat with the top of the trousers.

Conclusion:

Thank you for reading our whole blog! Today we wen’t over the in’s and out’s of owning a suit. We talked about the different types, how they should feel if they fit correctly and how to clean, store, and fold the suits! Following all of these steps doesn’t mean your suit will last forever, but it will help extend the lifetime of your suit! If you have any other questions or have a request for what type of blog you’d like to read next, please leave us a message below and we will get it taken care of for you! 🙂

Find us, Follow us, and like us on FACEBOOK for latest fashion Trends…

 

Click and SHARE…We would love to help your friends look smart…🕺💃 

If you have any questions

Our Blogs on Fashion...

🐑 All about wool🐑

Introduction: Welcome to Suits Avenue’s Blog! Today we are going to go over the ins and outs of wool!! See our table of contents below

Read More »
Posted on Leave a comment

🐑 All about wool🐑

Introduction:

Welcome to Suits Avenue’s Blog! Today we are going to go over the ins and outs of wool!! See our table of contents below for more details!  We added onto this blog from last week!

Come on into the store and check out what we have for you!

Table of Content:

  • What is wool?
  • Why is Wool Harvesting humane?
  • What Animals do wool come from?
  • History of wool
  • How do you get wool
  • How to color wool
  • Dealing with shrinking
  • How to care for wool
  • Fun Facts
  • Different Wool Weights
  • Different Weaves and Fabrics
  • Conclusion

WHAT IS WOOL?

Wool fibers — made mostly of alpha-keratin, which is found in all mammalian hair as well as horns and claws — stick together easily. The cells of their outer layer, or cuticle, have evolved to overlap like tiny shingles, creating spots for one fiber to catch on another as they are twisted. Modern wool fibers range from a fine 16 microns in diameter, from merinos, to 40 microns.

WHY IS WOOL HARVESTING HUMANE? 

  • Wool is hot. Too much of it impairs their temperature regulation mechanisms, and they can easily become overheated if not shorn annually.
  • Wool catches dirt and manure attracting insects.
  • Wool builds up around their joints and makes them heavier, impairing their movement. This makes them an easier target for predators.
  • If the fleece gets too low to the ground, it can pick up irritating grasses, weeds, and stickers, which can work their way down to the skin. If left untreated, contaminants can cause infection.
  • It improves overall hygiene, making the sheep healthier and lowering their risk of disease.
  • Sheep are sheared soon after they’ve given birth, in the late spring or early summer. The lambs are born with no wool, and, in many regions, would be likely to freeze if their mother brings them out from shelter. Shearing the ewe puts her in the same situation as the young, and keeps her in the warmth where the baby is safe.
  • It makes it easier for lambs to nurse.
  • Wool can build up around their face causing blindness.

WHAT ANIMALS DO WOOL COME FROM:

Sheep are the most prevalent producers of wool, though it also comes from rabbits, goats and alpacas. Here are some commonly used types of wool:

  • Alpaca fiber is considered luxury material because it is soft and fine. It is popular for spinning and knitting, and is also used for hair on dolls and figurines.
  • Angora rabbit wool is considered one of the finest fibers, prized for its softness and fluffiness. Typically mixed with silk, cashmere or sheep’s wool, it is used to make sweaters.
  • Cashmere goat wool is extremely soft and tends to be expensive because the combing and shearing of Cashmere goats is very time consuming.
  • Cheviot sheep wool is the foundation fiber of the famous Scotch Tweed industry. It is also used for outerwear, socks and needle felting.
  • Columbia sheep wool is known for light shrinkage, softness and length. It is an excellent all-purpose fleece that is soft enough to wear next to the skin.
  • Dorset sheep produce very white fleece that is strong and free from dark fiber. Dorsets are the No. 1 white-faced breed in the United States.
  • Friesian milk sheep are large-framed sheep with white wool that makes lofty, warm quilt batting and is good for needle felting.
  • Hampshire sheep wool is used for hard-wearing elastic yarns, felting and quilt batting and is a good needle felting wool.
  • Lincoln sheep grow long, heavy wool used for specialty knitting yarns, upholstery yarns and hand-knitted carpet yarns. It also provides shiny hairpieces for people and dolls.
  • Merino sheep wool is the finest and softest of all sheep wool. It is used in intense cold-weather applications for its breathability, temperature regulation and moisture control. It is also used for felting of purses, bowls, slippers and scarves.
  • Montadale sheep produce fleece popular with hand spinners that is used for sweaters, socks, scarves, hats and needle felting.
  • Romney sheep are known for heavy, lustrous fleece that grows up to six inches per year. It is popular for needle felting.

HISTORY OF WOOL: 

Clothing and other items made of wool have been found throughout much of the ancient world, from 3,400-year-old Egyptian yarn to fragmentary textiles unearthed in Siberian graves dating from the first century B.C.

Wool has stood in for even more precious fabrics: In 18th-century Norway, when the king forbade the wearing of silk by commoners, farmers opted for imported worsted wool fabric, which had a similar sheen.

HOW DO YOU GET WOOL:

https://youtu.be/XASfFO3w2O8 

Wool is shaved from the animals for our use of the fibers but also for the comfort of the animals. If they are not routinely shaved it will become over grown, matted, dirty and uncomfortable. The time between shaves depends on the breed of animals and the animal itself.

 

Click here to read about  seeing the quality in a suit before you buy!

HOW TO COLOR WOOL: 

https://youtu.be/K52PgtL7EnQ

1. Choose a Dyepot

The best recipes for dyeing wool all require heat, either heating the dyebath to a simmer with the wool in it, or applying the dye directly to the wool and then steaming to set the dye. You will need a dyeing pot. Unless you are going to restrict yourself to using only food coloring to dye your wool, you will need a special pot just for dyeing in, because textile dyes are not considered safe to use in the same pots in which you prepare food.

Dyepot material

Since aluminum will react with all of the acids used as auxiliary chemicals in the dyebaths used to dye wool, you must not choose aluminum for your dyepot, though you can use it for a steamer.

The best choice will be stainless steel, because it resists all dyeing chemicals (though even stainless steel can be damaged by failing to stir the salt into the water after you add it, to dissolve it thoroughly).

Another good choice is enamel. Enamel-covered steel canning pots are relatively inexpensive. Enamel chips easily, but it can be repaired. You must not use a chipped enamel pot, because the steel under the enamel will affect your dye colors, but it is safe to use a heat-resistant waterproof enamel paint to repair chips in your dyepot, although this is something you should not do with pots that you use for cooking food.

Dyepot size

You should be careful to use a sufficiently large pot for your dyeing. For smooth, solid-color dyeing, whatever you dye should be free to move freely in the water in your dyeing pot. If the material is cramped, you will get uneven results, with darker and lighter regions. Unless you will be dyeing only very small quantities at a time, try to get a pot that is at least three gallons in size, or larger for larger items. p>

Canning jars

An excellent way to dye small quantities of yarn or fabric in different colors is to use quart-sized canning jars. This can also get around the requirement for a non-aluminum pot; if you do all of your dyeing in glass jars, it doesn’t matter what the outer pot is made of. Use a rack to keep the jars off the bottom of the pot, and fill the pot with water to the same level outside the jars as your small dyebaths are within the jars. Cover the pot and heat it until the waterbath surrounding the jars reaches the desired temperature.

Other equipment

A thermometer is handy for making sure your dyebath is at the desired temperature; buy one that is either glass or stainless steel. Don’t use your kitchen thermometers for dyeing, or your dyeing thermometers for cooking. You can buy a thermometer from your dye supplier, a local home brewing supplier (for beer- and wine-making), or a chemical supplies company. It should cover the range from freezing (32°F or 0°C) to boiling (212°F or 100°C).

You will also need measuring cups, spoons, pipettes, or graduated cylinders, long-handled plastic or fiberglass spoons to stir with, jar-lifters for handling quart jars, and probably also some tongs for lifting dyed fiber.

2. Choose your dye

Dyes for Wool and other animal fibers

Acid dyes are the most popular dyes used on wool, and comprise a very wide range of different dyes. Some of the many different available acid dyes include food dyes, Metal Complex (or premetallized) Acid Dyes, Washfast Acid dyes, Acid Leveling dyes, and One Shot dyes. For more information on acid dyes, see About Acid dyes. Fiber reactive dyes such as Procion MX, Cibacron F, and Drimarene K can also be used as acid dyes on wool; see Reactive dyes on protein fibers.

Natural dyes. Many natural dyes work very well on protein fibers, such as wool. Most will require a mordant, such as alum, copper, tin, or iron, so they are not necessarily more on-toxic than synthetic dyes. See the page, About Natural Dyes.

Lanaset dyes. The longest lasting, most wash-resistant, richest of hand dyes available for dyeing wool in the US are the Lanaset dyes. The Lanaset dyes comprise a selection of both acid dyes and fiber reactive dyes that are designed for wool. Unlike other dyes for wool, Lanaset dyes can be washed in hot water without fading badly. They are often difficult to obtain other countries in quantities small enough for hand dyeing.

Vinyl sulfone dyes (vinyl sulphone, if you are British), also known as Remazol dyes, are a type of fiber reacfive dye that is often used in silk painting. Unlike Procion MX dyes, they can be applied to wool under acid conditions as true fiber reactive dyes, rather than as acid dyes; see Vinyl Sulfone Fiber Reactive Dyes. Note that ProChem sells these under the name “Liquid Reactive Dyes”, Dharma Trading Company as “Vinyl Sulphon”, and other suppliers as “Remazol” dyes.

Vat Dyes, such as indigo, can also be used to dye wool and other protein fibers, but the recipe must be modified to avoid pHs high enough to damage the wool. See About Vat dyes

All purpose dyes can be used to dye protein fibers, because they include an acid dye in their mixture. See All Purpose Dyes. The color might be slightly different than expected, and the expense is higher than with other dyes.

3. Find the Right Instructions

The different types of dyes used on wool are not interchangeable. All require a mild acid, such as vinegar, citric acid, ammonium sulfate, or sodium acetate, but not necessarily in the same quantities, and some require additional chemicals such as salt, Albegal SET, or sodium sulfate (Glauber’s salt). Some dyes require a significantly lower (more acidic) pH than others; using a pH that is too low or too high for your specific dye will reduce your success in dyeing. After you choose your dye, find a wool-dyeing recipe that specifies that particular sort of dye. Your dye should come with its specific instructions.

DEALING WITH SHRINKING:

As everyone knows, wool is subject to shrinkage. The only exception to this is chemically-treated wool, such as Superwash or Smartwool. However, the wool fibers do not themselves shrink in length. Instead, when subjected to heat and agitation in the presence of water, the fibers become more and more closely interlocked, with the scales on the fibers acting like the teeth in a ratchet. If you want to prevent felting and shrinkage, you must be careful to avoid agitating your wool while it’s in the hot dyebath. With cellulose fibers, you must stir your dyebath frequently to avoid uneven dyeing, but wool dyes and their auxiliary chemicals are chosen to allow level dyeing without stirring the fiber.

Be careful to avoid sudden temperature changes. Raise and lower the temperature of your wool only gradually. You don’t want to shock your wool.

When dyeing wool that will be used later for intentional felting, use a washfast dye such as the Lanaset dyes. Less washfast dyes may bleed when felted

Click here to read about how a suit should fit! 

HOW TO CARE FOR WOOL: 

  • Empty pockets after every wearing to keep them from bulging or sagging.
  • Treat small stains by rinsing them with cold water or seltzer and then blotting them dry with a clean cloth. If the garment is labeled “hand wash,” clean it using your washer’s hand wash or wool cycle with cool water.
  • To remove excess water after washing, gently roll the garment in a towel.
  • Dry on a flat surface away from direct heat or sunlight.
  • When traveling, loosely roll or fold wool garments with tissue paper to keep the fabric’s shape and avoid wrinkles.
  • To freshen a wrinkled garment, hang it in a steamy bathroom. A warm iron on the wool or steam setting can also be used.
  • Dry cleaning once a season is usually sufficient to keep wool garments in good shape

Fun Facts:

  • That itch from your warm winter woolies? Most likely it’s sensitivity to thicker (and coarser) fiber diameter or fiber ends, not a wool allergy, which is practically unknown.
  • Besides clothing, wool has quite a few industrial uses, from piano dampers to absorbent pads for those baaaaad oil spills.
  • Wool is also biodegradable. It breaks down slowly, fertilizing the plants with a generous nitrogen content of a whopping 17 percent compared with the 6 percent nitrogen in commercial turf products. And it is water-retentive.
  • In a seeming paradox, wool can absorb and repel water simultaneously. The outer surface of wool fiber is made up of fatty acid proteins and does not absorb liquid. However, structural features in the fiber’s interior, called salt linkages, can sop up copious amounts of moisture in vapor form.

Wool weights:

The thickness, Pure, high quality, virgin wool is defined as such by the thinness of the thread with which weaving is carried out. The thinner the thread, therefore with a lower micron count, the higher the quality.

Beaver cloth is a heavy woolen overcoating, napped and pressed down to resemble beaver fur.

Broadcloth is an all woolen or worsted fabric with a velvety feel.

Challis, a light weight soft wool fabric in plain weave, has a printed or woven design or flowers.

Cheviot, usually Scotch wool is a soft, fine wool that is heavier than serge.

Chinchilla cloth is a heavy, spongy woolen overcoat fabric with a long nap that has been rubbed into a curly, nubby finish.

Felt fabric is a compact sheet of entangled, not woven wool or fur fibers. The felt is produced by processing a mat of fibers with moisture, heat, and pressure.

Flannel wool is a soft, lightweight fabric with a nap on one or both sides.

Gabardine is a tightly woven wool twill with a high sheen. This fabric is excellent for tailoring and wears well.

Glen checks are usually seen in menswear and originated in Scotland. It is characterized by a variety of small, even check designs.

Harris tweed is a hand woven fabric from Scotland with a soft feel.

Herringbone wool is woven in a twill that is reversed at regular spacing, creating a sawtooth line.

Homespun is a loose, strong, durable woolen woven either by hand or machine with a coarse feel.

Lambsdown is a heavy knit fabric that has a spongy fleeced nap on one side.

Linsey-woolsey is a coarse fabric first made in Lindsey, England, of wool combined with flax or cotton.

Loden fabric is a thick, soft, waterproof, windproof, wool used in outerwear that has a characteristic green color.

Melton, a heavy, thick, short napped woven fabric that has been fulled.

Oatmeal Cloth is a durable, soft wool with a pebbled face.

Petersham, a very thick, waterproof woolen coating, usually dark blue, is used for men’s trousers or heavy coats.

Pilot Cloth is a coarse, heavy, stout twilled woolen that is heavily napped and navy blue. Used by seamen.

Sharkskin is woven with warp and filling yarns of alternating white with black, brown or blue.

Tartan is a twilled plaid design, originally Scottish.

Tweed is a rough textured wool, originally homespun and slightly felted. This fabric is sturdy with a mottled color

Conclusion:

Today we went over, what wool is, why its humane it harvest it, the history, how to get it, color it and care for it! We also went over most of the wool fabrics and weaves! If you have any questions please feel free to come into the store!

Find us, Follow us, and like us on FACEBOOK for latest fashion Trends…

 

Click and SHARE…We would love to help your friends look smart…🕺💃 

If you have any questions

Our Blogs on Fashion...

🐑 All about wool🐑

Introduction: Welcome to Suits Avenue’s Blog! Today we are going to go over the ins and outs of wool!! See our table of contents below

Read More »
Posted on Leave a comment

✅ Making sure your Suit matches✅

Introduction:

Hello! Welcome to Suits Avenue’s blog! Today we are going to go over all of the fundamentals of putting your outfit together! We will go over everything in the outfit. From your socks and shoes, to your ties and cuff links, and everything in between! Check out the table of contents below to see our general overview! Check out the links, pictures, and videos through out the blog as well! 

Table of Contents:

  • General Tips
  • Jacket & Bottoms
  • Matching your shirt
  • Adding in a tie
  • Pocket Square
  • Socks
  • Bring on the shoes

General Tips:

  • Don’t go crazy with color. If you haven’t experimented with color before then stick with less intense colors like your Blues, Blacks, and Greens before expanding into bolder, brighter colors.
  • Understand color scheme. A simple way to keep track of color to pair lighter and darker versions of the same color. This is a monochromatic color scheme and its a simple way to add some flair to your look. Another color scheme involves pairing colors that fall next to each other on the color wheel, such as wearing a dark purple shirt with a blue tie. On the other end you could also pair colors that fall completely opposite each other on the color wheel, such as a blue shirt and a red tie, a classic look that provides great visual contrast.
  • Be careful with patterns. You don’t need to be scared of patterns and now that you have a better understanding of color, adding a pattern to your wardrobe is the next logical step. There are many different options – shirt and tie with a pattern, solid tie and patterned shirt, etc. – but the one rule of thumb to have when using multiple patterns is to vary the proportions of each design.

     

    If you decide you want patterns you need to keep these things in mind:

    1. Pattern- The pattern shouldn’t be too distracting. The pattern on your shirt should not be the same pattern on your tie.
    2. Size- The size of your patterns should not be the same. Go with a bigger pattern on your shirt and a smaller pattern on your tie, or vice-versa.

    If you decide to go with patterns keep in mind they should ALWAYS vary in size and design.

Jacket & Bottoms:

First, we are going to start with the basics! Every suit needs a jacket and bottoms! Of course, you can always play it safe by having them be the same color, or you can venture out of your bubble! We will give some great examples and help give you confidence as you pick out your outfit for the day! You can have a dark version of a color jacket and a light version of the same color as your pants, or vice-versa! Dark neutrals (first picture) scream confidence. As long as you follow those few rules and don’t use extreme colors, you really can’t go wrong.

Once you have your pants and jacket, we can move onto your shirt!

Shirt:

A classic white shirt will never fail and it sits with all suit colors and tones. Lilac and purple are just two tones that work well with grey or navy suits, while soft greys and periwinkle are great choices with black or charcoal. You can always play it safe by keeping things neutral!

Now that you have a matching jacket, bottoms, and shirt…we move onto the tie!

Click here to learn how to see the quality in your suit before you buy it!

Tie:

There are so many colors, fabrications, patterns and textures, but it doesn’t have to be this way. Once you’ve confirmed the general dress code of the event, identify the overall  color: your tie should, ultimately, complement the dominate shade with an overall color or patter. Try matching a rich blue tie with a sky-blue shirt and dark navy suit for a tonal look, or a red tie for some color-pop and contrast. If you’re wearing grey, stick with muted tones such as brown or burgundy, or choose a black tie for a sharp salt-and-pepper effect. 

Try to avoid any pairings that invoke thoughts of a specific holiday; while it is possible to pull off such combos, it’s a delicate balancing act that can come across as costumey as opposed to polished and sophisticated. 

If your occasion is more than business casual, than you should also have a pocket square in your jacket pocket.

Pocket Square:

For most cases, your pocket square should match your tie. You don’t want to have too many colors and patterns going on or you will just look like a hot mess instead of hot. If you choose to venture out, it is important that the color should complement either the shirt or tie. The safest option is to pair a white shirt with a white pocket square. For a more advanced approach, look for a patterned pocket square where the secondary color matches the tie, or go tonal with a subtle change of shade between the shirt, tie and square.

Socks:

Classic dressers should opt for black, burgundy, or dark grey socks. Of course, you can always play it safe and have your socks match your jacket and bottoms, shirt, or your tie and pocket square!

Shoes:

Always wear black shoes with a black suit and recycle them for deep navy business suits when you have a day in the boardroom. Chocolate brown shoes will work with your staple navy and grey tailoring. Our advice, keep it simple. Stick to the neutral colors, black, white, brown, and grey.

Click here to read about leather and leather shoes!

Cuff Links:

Once you’ve got the main show sorted, it’s onto the supportting acts. Some  accessories, like cufflinks, can lift a look from standard to headliner – providing you pick the right ones. When wearing a white shirt, you can experiment with any color, pattern or shape cufflinks, unless you’re in a strict formal environment. Gold designs really stand out against a light blue or navy shirt, while black onyx is better suited to black tie

Conclusion:

Hopefully, after reading this blog you feel more confident going out dressed up! Make sure to click the links within the blog! If you take good care of your suit, keeping it clean, you can add YEARS onto your suits life! Fill out the form below or come into the store if you have any questions!

Find us, Follow us, and like us on FACEBOOK for latest fashion Trends…

 

Click and SHARE…We would love to help your friends look smart…🕺💃 

If you have any questions the form below.

Our Blogs on Fashion...

🐑 All about wool🐑

Introduction: Welcome to Suits Avenue’s Blog! Today we are going to go over the ins and outs of wool!! See our table of contents below

Read More »
Posted on Leave a comment

👞The leather & leather shoe guide👞

Introduction-

Hello everyone! Thank you for reading Suits Avenue’s blog! Today we are going to talk about leather shoes, where they come from, what they’re made of, how they’re made, colored and sewed 🙂 Stick along to get the ins and outs of your new leather shoes! Make sure to read the whole thing because we have added on! We learned about leather shoes specifically! 

Stop into the store today to look at our new pairs!

Table of Contents:

  • What is Leather?
  • History Of Leather
  • Ethics behind leather
  • Where is leather produced?
  • 5 Types of leather
  • The leather we offer
  • How to make leather
  • Colors leather/ Method 1/ Using Commercial leather dye
  • Coloring Leather/ Method 2/ Using Vinegar and Rust
  • How to sew leather.
  • Difference between hand made and machine made shoes
  • Parts of a leather shoe.
  • How to make a leather sole.
  • How machine made shoes are made.
  • How hand made shoes are created.
  • Cutting leather parts of a shoe.
  • Leather shoe care.
  • How to repair broken leather shoes.
  • Conclusion

What is leather?

What is leather? Real leather (not synthetically made) is made from animal skin, and more commonly cow hide, although goat, buffalo and exotic leathers such as snake and alligator are also available.

Here at Suits Avenue we sell Ostrich, cow and elephant leather! 

Synthetic Leather:

Synthetic leather, also known as Leatherette, is made by covering a fabric base with a plastic. The fabric can be made of natural or synthetic fiber which is then covered with a soft polyvinyl chloride (PVC) layer. Leatherette is used mainly  in bookbinding and was common on the casings of 20th century cameras.

HISTORY OF LEATHER

Tests which have been carried out on historical leather have shown that a wide variety of animals were used for their skin in early times including squirrels, rabbits, beavers, goat, deer, camels and even alpacas. In these times, people would want to use every bit of the animal for food, tools and shelter, which is when they started using animals for their skin. As agriculture and livestock has expanded along with technology, this has paved the way for the development of modern tanning of leather. During the Middle Ages, leather was used for items such as footwear, clothes, bags, cases, trunks and saddles. It was also used for military use and a lot of leather articles were recovered from the Tudor ship the Mary Rose which sank in 1545. 

Leather production is a by-product of the meat industry and is centred on the hides from four species of animal: cows 65%, sheep 15%, pigs 11% and goats 9%. Without the processing of animal hides into leather there would be serious environmental consequences resulting from the disposal of animal hide

ETHICS:

Leather is used in everything from car seats to footballs and horses saddles and handbags due to its durable nature and finish that is difficult to replicate with synthetic materials. Many consumers are happy to buy products made of leather because it is typically a byproduct of the meat and dairy industries. However, vegans and vegetarians may wish to avoid leather products and opt for a “vegan” leather instead. Although the term “vegan leather” implies an eco-friendly alternative, it should be noted that some vegan leathers can cause more danger to the environment than real leather.

WHERE IS LEATHER PRODUCED?


At present, the top six countries producing tanned leather are: China, Italy, India, Brazil, Korea and Russia. Hides are often acquired from animals in these countries and are then shipped to other countries to be processed. For example, a company in the UK might buy leather from China and ship them in a refrigerated container to somewhere such as Italy where they are famous for their tanning methods and then re-import the finished leather back to the UK before selling it. Despite some other countries being better known for their production of leather, 80% of the world’s leather products are now made in China.

“The 5 types of leather”

1. Full Grain or Top Grain Leather – ( ” the best ” )

This is the upper layer of a hide which is split into layers by a splitting machine to various thickness. This outer layer will show natural scars and haircell patterns if left as uncorrected natural grain. The thickness can vary depending on the gauge set at the time of splitting and the application. Thereafter the hides can be colored & given various protective finishes. Whether produced for UpholsteryGarmentShoe or Saddlery, these are the best types of leather as they are the strongest and most durable and valuable layer of hide.

2. Corrected or Embossed Grain – ( ” 2nd best ” , full grain)

Hides which have an excessive amount of scratches or scars are further processed by “correcting” the natural grain of a Full Grain skin. After splitting to the required thickness, this natural grain is buffed or sanded and replaced with an embossed grain and finish to simulate various hair cell patterns. The resulting effect will look flawless with no natural scars showing, but this is no longer the real or natural grain. The original feel or hand of the natural skin and durability is also reduced with a synthetic grain and finish. Many applications for shoe and handbag leather are embossed with unique exotic prints to simulate the look as well. This process is utilized in many Garments and Upholstery while still represented as “full grain leather” which technically it is that layer.

3. Split Suede – ( “functional and inexpensive leather hides” )

The second layer or lower layer of the skin left after removing the Full Grain layer is the Split Suede and will be suede on both sides. These types of leathers also will come in various thickness depending on application. As this is a byproduct of hide tanning it is less costly and therefore utilized in products where Full Grain is not required such as tool pouches, moccasins, suede garments etc.. This layer of the skin can also be further processed by the application of a synthetic finish and hair cell to one side of the suede to create an artificial look of Full Grain leather, known as “finished split” hide. This is used extensively in lower cost furniture and garments and represented as “Genuine Leather” which technically it still is although it may look like something it is not.

4. Nubuck Sueded Grain – ( “look but don’t touch – very sensitive leather”)

This Full Grain layer of the skin is given a suede effect by lightly sanding the natural grain to open the hair cell and results in a velvety suede feel. This is also correcting imperfections in the natural grain and although soft to the touch, it is a sensitive effect. Care must be taken against soiling or staining as it is very difficult if not impossible to clean afterward. This effect is utilized in many garments and Upholstery products.

5. Reconstituted, Bonded or Fibre Leather – ( “Recycled, particle board” )

Here leather remnants and scraps from garment and shoe factories are ground up and recycled. In these types of leather the fiber particles are bonded with adhesive into a fabric followed by the application of a synthetic grain, hair-cell pattern and finish. This material will have a suede back and looks of smooth Full Grain leather , while it is essentially Particle board leather. As it is comprised of at least 51% leather fiber, it is represented as “Genuine leather” and utilized in many low priced garment and upholstery finished products. BUYER BEWARE – ASK QUESTIONS FIRST!

The Leathers we offer:

Ostrich Leather:

Ostrich leather is highly durable which has a uniquely bumpy texture, referred to as quills, that makes ostrich skins a prime choice for elegant leather products. We only stock and wholesale industry standard size South Africa origin and processed full body ostrich skins and legs. Our Ostrich body sizes are 16.5 square foot on average with only the center and neck containing 7 square foot of premium quill. Please adjust your required usage of desired quill in your design when ordering. Our ostrich leg and ostrich body skins are the best in the international marketplace and are the exact same finished ostrich skins sold throughout Italy as the premier in luxury and sold at over $400 per skin. We currently have a United States revolving stock of 10,000 skins in 75 colors and finishes. Ostrich skins are used to produce a variety of men’s and women’s products , like ostrich skin wallets, garments, wall covering, furniture, handbags, motorcycle seats, saddles, iPad and iPhone cases, business products, and more.

Cow Leather:

This is one of the most common types of leather, this is because of its durability an quality.

ELEPHANT LEATHER:

Elephant hides are a thick and durable hide with a deep, distressed wrinkled texture. The elephant skins are extra wide hides known as “panels”. With an average of 20 sq. ft. of material, elephant skin panels are great for applications with wide applications where a thicker hide is preferred over a thinner skin or where the use of small skins will require significant seaming.

As with all of our materials, our African elephant hides are legally imported, abiding by the CITES rules and regulations. All of our skins are thoroughly inspected in our U.S. locations prior to shipping

HOW TO MAKE LEATHER:

To get from a salted hide to a piece of leather ready for use in a sofa takes 10 working days! 

The steps below show you what tanneries have to do to turn hides into leather :-

Curing

Raw hides and skins must be preserved to stop them deteriorating before the leather-making process can begin. Methods of preservation include salting, chilling, freezing and the use of biocides.

Soaking

Cured hides or skins are soaked in water for several hours to several days. This allows them to reabsorb any water they may have lost in the curing process or during transportation. It also helps to clean them of salt and dirt.

Painting

Painting is a method by which wool can be removed from sheepskins using a sulphide based mixture.

Liming

Liming removes the epidermis and hair. This also results in alkaline swelling of the pelt to cause a controlled breaking of some of the chemical crosslinks of the collagen .

Fleshing

After liming the pelt is passed through a machine to remove fleshy tissue from the flesh side. Hides may be split into layers at this stage or after tanning.

Deliming

The principal action of deliming is to gradually neutralise the alkali in the pelt, avoiding rapid changes in pH which could lead to distortion or disruption of the tissues.

Bating

A long delime can significantly improve the removal of any remaining lime, scud (miscellaneous debris) and residual components broken down during liming. Bating – based on the use of enzymes – completes this process so that the pelt is flat, relaxed, clean and ready for pickling and tanning.

Pickling

Weak acid and salt solutions are used to bring the pelt to the weakly acid state required for most tanning processes. Stronger pickling solutions are used to preserve pelts so that they can be stored or transported in a stable form over periods of several months.

Degreasing

Solvents or water-based systems can be used to remove excess grease before tanning.

Tanning

Tanning converts the protein of the raw hide or skin into a stable material, which will not putrefy and is suitable for a wide variety of purposes. Tanning materials form crosslinks in the collagen structure and stabilise it against the effects of acids, alkalis, heat, water and the action of micro-organisms. The main types of tanning materials are :

Mineral tannages

Most leather is tanned using salts of chromium.

Aldehyde and oil tannages

Tanning with aldehydes and oils produce very soft leathers and this system can be used to produce drycleanable and washable fashion leathers and also chamois leather.

Vegetable tannages

Various plant extracts produce brown coloured leathers which tend to be thick and firm. This type of tannage is used to produce stout sole leather, belting leather and leathers for shoe linings, bags and cases.

Splitting

A splitting machine slices thicker leather into two layers. The layer without a grain surface can be turned into suede or have an artificial grain surface applied.

Shaving

A uniform thickness is achieved by shaving the leather on the non-grain side using a machine with a helical blades mounted on a rotating cylinder.

Neutralisation

Neutralising removes residual chemicals and prepares the leather for further processing and finishing. 

Additional tanning material may be applied to give particular properties which are required in the finished leather.

Dyeing

The dyeing of leather into a wide variety of colours plays an important part in meeting fashion requirements. Some leathers are only surface dyed, while others need completely penetrated dyeings, as is the case with suede leathers.

Fatliquoring

Fatliquoring introduces oils to lubricate the fibres and keep the leather flexible and soft. Without these oils the leather will become hard and inflexible as it dries out.

Samming

This process reduces water content to about 55% and can be achieved by a number of machines, the commonest being like a large mangle with felt covered rollers.

Setting out

The leather is stretched out and the grain side is smoothed. This process also reduces the water content to about 40%.

Final drying

Leather is normally dried to 10-20% water content. This can be achieved in a number of ways and each method has a different effect on the finished leather:

Staking and dry drumming

A staking machine makes the leather softer and more flexible by massaging it to separate the fibres. To finish off the leather may be softened by the tumbling action inside a rotating drum.

Buffing and Brushing

The flesh surface is removed by mechanical abrasion to produce a suede effect or to reduce the thickness. In some cases the grain surface is buffed to produce a very fine nap, e.g. nubuck leathers. After buffing the leather is brushed to remove excess dust.

Finishing

The aims of finishing are to level the colour, cover grain defects, control the gloss and provide a protective surface with good resistance to water, chemical attack and abrasion.

Final grading

Leather will be graded before despatch to the customer. This grading may consider the colour intensity and uniformity, the feel of the leather, softness, visual appearance, thickness, design effects and natural defects such as scratches.

TREATMENT AND PRESERVATION


As leather is a natural product, it is important to preserve and condition it. There are many products you can buy which will lengthen the life of leather. Those that have been treated with acid are more prone to red rot which cause changes in the texture of the leather. Although this change cannot be reversed, treatments can be applied to stop it from becoming too damaged. 

COLORING LEATHER: – METHOD ONE – USING COMMERCIAL LEATHER DYE

1. Choose your leather dye. Most commercially prepared leather dyes come with leather preparer, the dye itself, and a finish (such as leather sheen). Consider the following when choosing a dye:

  • Alcohol-based dyes stiffen the leather, while water-based dyes leave it soft and supple. Many water-based dyes are actually coatings, which can completely change the color of the piece.
  • The color of the dye is not representative of the final color. Test on a small sample first. If you are touching up an already dyed piece, use a color-matching service to get an exact match.
  • Dyes can be spray-on, paint-on, or sponge-on. Choose the type that works best for you in terms of ease of use.

2. Tape off any area that you do not want dyed. Cover any buckles or metal pieces that you do not want dyed with masking tape. The tape may damage the leather finish, but you’ll be removing that anyway to make the surface available for dyeing.

3. Move to a well-ventilated area. Most leather preparers and leather dyes release fumes that are unhealthy to breathe. Work in a space with good ventilation. If dyeing your leather outdoors, keep it out of direct sunlight and extreme heat.

  • Most dyes give best results at air temperatures of 60ºF (15ºC)

4. Protect your hands and floor from stains. Leather dye can stain skin for a week and other surfaces permanently. Wear two pairs of latex or nitrile gloves. Lay down plastic drop cloth to catch spills.

 

5. Apply the leather preparer. Rub the leather preparer or de-glazer on with a clean cloth. This removes the leather finish so the dye can penetrate evenly into the material.

 

6. Wet the leather. Use a spray bottle filled with water to dampen the surface of the leather. Do not over-saturate the leather, but make sure you have an even covering. This helps the leather absorb the dye evenly, resulting in a smooth finish.

  • Some leather dyes do not require this step. Check the label.

7. Apply your first coat. Start by painting the edges with a paintbrush. For the rest of the job, apply the dye in a thin coat using a sponge, wool dauber, paintbrush, or sprayer. Check the dye label to see which tool the manufacturer recommends, or weigh the following pros and cons:

  • Sponges can apply a special affect or texture to the leather. Apply in a circular motion for an even look.
  • Wool daubers are easy to use when applying liquid dye to small areas. They may not work well with gel dyes.[2]
  • Paintbrushes are good for edges and small areas, but it is hard to hide the brush strokes over large areas. Apply the first layer left to right, the second up and down, and the next layer in circular motions to ensure even coating.
  • Sprayers makes it easy to blend colors for repairs or multi-color dye jobs. An airbrush or touch-up spray gun provides the most control.[3]Check the dye instructions to see if it is suitable for spraying.

 

8. Apply additional coats of leather dye. Let the first coat dry a little, then apply another one. Repeat with additional coats of leather dye until it reaches the desired color, usually after three to six coats.[4] Applying several thin coats makes it easier to achieve a uniform color.

9. Allow the leather to dry completely, manipulating it periodically to keep it supple. Allow the leather to dry for at least 24 hours. Pick it up and flex it occasionally (wearing gloves) to prevent it becoming rigid. The leather may feel sticky at first, but this should disappear after buffing or applying leather sheen.

 

10. Buff the leather with a clean cloth or apply leather sheen. Buffing with a cloth removes any dye residue and polishes the surface of the leather. You may use leather sheen to leave a shiny finish on the leather.

COLORING LEATHER: – METHOD TWO – USING VINEGAR AND RUST

  1. Use vinegar and rust to dye leather black. This old-fashioned recipe, called vinegaroon or vinegar black, is a cheap and easy way to permanently dye your leather dark black. The color will not rub off onto fingers or clothes, and you can save the leftover dye for later use.[5]
  • This method works best on vegetable-tanned leather (or antique pit-tanned leather). If the leather is already dyed, it was probably chrome-tanned and sealed, and vinegaroon will not give good results.

2. Choose a source of rust. You can use uncoated iron nails, iron shavings, or any other material that will rust (and ideally has already started to rust). Steel wool is one of the fastest options, since you can tear it into small fragments, but it has an oil coating to prevent rust. Get rid of this first by dunking the steel wool in acetone, squeezing it out, then letting it dry completely.[6]

  • Acetone can irritate skin, but occasional contact shouldn’t cause lasting harm.[7]Wearing latex gloves is recommended.[8]

3. Warm the vinegar. Heat about a half gallon (two liters) of white vinegar or apple cider vinegar until it is hot, but not too hot to touch.[9] Pour it back into the container it was sold in, or into any convenient container.

4. Drop the metal into the vinegar. Over time, the rust (iron oxide) will react with the vinegar (acetic acid). This form a substance called ferric acetate, which reacts with tannins to dye the leather.[10]

  • The amount of iron to add depends on the concentration of the vinegar. The easiest approach is to start with a large quantity (thirty nails, as a ballpark estimate), then keep adding metal until it stops dissolving.[11]

5. Keep in a warm, ventilated container for at least a week. Punch a hole in the lid to let off gases, or the container could explode. Close the lid and put the container in a warm location for at least a week or two. The “vinegarroon” is ready when the iron is dissolved and there is no strong vinegar smell.[12]

  • If it still smells strongly of vinegar, add more iron. If there’s already iron in there, heat over the stove to speed up the reaction.
  • Once almost all of the acetic acid is gone, any remaining iron will rust normally, turning the liquid reddish. At this point you can leave the lid off for a couple days to help the last dregs of the acetic acid evaporate.

6. Filter out the liquid. Run the vinegaroon through paper towels or coffee filters repeatedly until the liquid is free from solids

7. Soak your leather in black tea. Brew an extra-strong black tea, then let the water cool. Soak the leather in it to add extra tannin. This will improve the effects of the vinegaroon, and help prevent cracking.[14]

  • Professional leather workers sometimes use tannic acid or logwood extract instead.

 

8. Soak the leather in vinegaroon for thirty minutes. The liquid will penetrate into the leather and add a deep, permanent dye. Don’t be alarmed if the color looks grey or bluish. It should deepen to black during the process, and become darker after oiling.

  • It’s a good idea to test a similar piece of scrap leather first, or one corner of the object. If it cracks after a couple days, dilute the vinegaroon in water and try again.

 

9. Neutralize the leather using a baking soda solution. Mix 3 tbs. (45 mL) baking soda in one quart (1L) of water. Saturate the leather with the solution and then rinse with clean water. This neutralizes the acid in the vinegar solution to keep your leather from disintegrating later on.

 

10. Condition the leather using oil. While the leather is still damp, rub your favorite leather oil over the surface. You may need two coats of the oil to fully condition the leather. Choose the oil that works best for your leather product by testing on a small portion of the leather.

Step 1: Using Rubber Cement

To get started on hand-sewing leather, I like to use rubber cement; it helps hold the leather together while sewing, but it offers a light enough bond to allow a second chance to line things up to precision (which isn’t always the case with other types of glue). Apply a light coat of rubber cement to both pieces of leather, then press them together when the cement is nearly dry.

Step 2: Work a Groove Into the Leather

Now that you have things secured in place, put a groove on the leather with a stitching groover. This tool does two things: It presents a nice straight line to stitch on and removes a small amount of leather to provide a trench that the stitch can sink into, which can help protect the thread.

Step 3: Mark Stitch Spacing

Utilizing the groove you just made, use an overstitch wheel to mark the thread spacing. As it’s name implies, this craft tool marks exactly where to stitch and creates a shallow channel to sink your stitches further into the leather. Overstitch wheels come in different sizes that vary the spaced length of your stitching. We’re using a number six size in this sewing tutorial. If you’re unsure of which size to use, remember this rule: the number refers to the amount of stitches per inch.

Step 4: Use a Stitching Awl

Create holes for sewing into the leather. A stitching awl, used here, is the best tool for the job. The awl is reminiscent of an ice pick, but it has a diamond-shaped blade with sharp cutting edges to pierce holes into the leather rather than tear holes, as a round metal point would. When using it, pierce through the leather on each of the dots created by the overstitch wheel. Make sure that you keep the awl at a 90-degree angle when piercing the leather to ensure that the spacing is consistent on each side for uniform stitching.

Step 5: Lock the Needle

For any hand-sewn leather project, you will need a length of thread that measures three times the area coverage. For the saddle stitch, you will use two needles: one on either end of the thread. Here’s a trick I like to use when sewing leather: lock the needle into the thread. To do this, run the waxed thread through the needle eyelet then pull it through further by about an inch. Next, pierce the thread with the needle point (as shown) and push this loop around the needle upwards towards the eyelet. With end of the thread that initially passed through the eyelet, pull out the slack that was created with this adjustment. Holding the needle, pull the loop over the eyelet to lock the needle in place. By securing the thread this way, you won’t have to worry about it sliding off of the needle while you sew. Repeat on the other end so you have two needles on the thread, one on each end.

In the following steps, I will be using a stitching pony to help with the process. This model pictured here features a wooden “turn- key” with jaws that hold the leather in place while stitching and ensures a stable work station. This is an optional accessory, however it is handy to have around as an extra hand to help hold the project in place while working on it

Step 6: Start to Stitch

To begin your stitch, sew through the first hole, making sure the lengths of thread are even on each side. Continue to sew through the same hole with both needles, each time passing through the same hole from opposite sides. Continue this back-and-forth sewing technique, pulling the thread snug with each pass, until you have reached the end of your project. If you are having difficulty with the needles getting stuck in the leather, try widening the holes further with the stitching awl or using a pair of needle-nose pliers to help pull through the leather.

Step 7: Lock the Stitch

When you have completed your stitching, you will want to lock the stitch in to place. Sew back a few stitches, pull the thread down snug, and cut the thread flush against the project.

#1 Quality of leather

A pair of regular formal shoes is made of synthetic or cheap quality leather which will not last long. Poor quality leather cracks or splits over a period of time and does not mould your feet properly. However, if you pay a little more, you can buy these handmade shoes made of premium quality Italian calf leather which will last for years and keep looking good.

#2 Type of sole

The sole used in most shoes is manufactured locally which may not be that good in terms of comfort for your feet. These handmade shoes are made of Argentina leather sole which is considered as the finest quality leather in the world.

#3 Regular shoes vs premium shoes

Each and every component of the shoe right from the lining to the tongue and the socks of these shoes are made of real leather. This is what makes these shoes actually very long lasting.

#4 Factory vs Workshop

The handmade shoes have better strength and durability as compared to a machine made shoes. The craftsmen who make these shoes spend a lot of time on making a pair whereas machine made shoes are manufactured in a bigger quantity which makes the difference.

#5 Machine vs Hands

A pair of shoes goes through several stages of manufacturing. Handmade shoe makers let the shoes rest and breathe between these stages which results in superior fit, quality and looks whereas machine made shoes are infused with stiffeners to speed up the production process which is a compromise on quality.

  1. Eyelet
    The small metal ring that reinforces the lace hole and stops it from wearing away.
  2. Heel
    The thick piece of leather or rubber that’s attached to the sole of a shoe to raise and support the back of the foot. Dress shoestend to have a separate heel piece, which can be replaced if necessary. Contemporary designs often use a wedge-shaped rubber sole that does away with the need for a separate heel.
  3. Heel cup
    A semicircular piece of leather or other sturdy material that is stitched or glued over the back of a shoe’s quarter (see below) in order to reinforce the heel area, which tends to experience the most strain (alongside the toe) in the course of a shoe’s general wear and tear.
  4. Quarter
    The back part of the upper, typically beginning where the vamp (see below) finishes, and wrapping around the heel. If the shoe is whole cut, the quarter and vamp will be the same piece of material. In most shoes, however, they are two separate pieces of leather.
  5. Sole
    The piece of hard material on the bottom of the shoe. This can be leather – which is more breathable but also more vulnerable to moisture and water damage – or rubber – which offers some protection against the elements, but is less formal.
  6. Toe cap
    A piece of leather (or other material) that is stitched or glued to the toe of a shoe. This helps to reinforce this often strained area, but it can also make for a nice graphic accent.
  7. Tongue
    The flexible piece of material that sits underneath the laces and quarter of a shoe. This helps to spread the pressure of a shoe’s closure across the foot.
  8. Topline
    The uppermost edge of the quarter at the back of the shoe (i.e. where the hole is for your foot). On sneakers, this is often called the “collar”.
  9. Top piece
    A thin layer of leather or rubber attached to the bottom of the heel. It is the bit that touches the floor.
  10. Upper
    A word used to designate the entire top half of the shoe that covers the foot, including the vamp and quarter. It is attached to the sole with either glue or nails.
  11. Vamp
    The front section of a shoe’s upper, which typically stretches from the toe to the middle of the foot, where it meets the back part or quarter.
  12. Welt
    The thin strip of leather that runs around the edge of the sole (which juts out slightly on a dress shoe). The purpose of this is to fasten the upper to the sole.

 

How leather shoes are machine made:

The machines are programmed to know what to do ahead of time. They go from machine to machine, the leather being measured, cut, and sewn together.

Leather shoes hand sewn:

The measurements are marked on the leather hide, they are then hand cut and sewn together to make the shoe. They use a foot base to help shape it together.

 

How to make Leather Soles:

Place a sheet of paper on the floor. Stand on the paper with your feet apart, and have a friend help you trace around the outsides of your feet.

Draw over your tracing lines, refining the foot shapes so that they are smooth and do not show any individual toes. Cut the traced soles from the paper.

Lay the sole patterns on top of a piece of medium-weight leather. Secure them to the leather using pins.

Cut around the edges of the pattern pieces so that you have identical leather versions of your patterns.

Attach the leather soles to your chosen shoe tops by stitching the soles to the shoe tops with a leather sewing needle.

 

Cutting leather parts of  a shoe:

All leather parts of a shoe are cut down from a bigger hide. Each shoe has it’s own specific measurements, unique to each brand!

Leather Shoe Care:

Cleaning:

Clean and apply conditioner to your shoes once a month. First remove dirt with a nylon medium-bristle brush and a capful of Woolite diluted in a bowl of warm water.

After conditioning your dress shoes, polish with a neutral shoe cream. Work the cream over the leather with your fingers and let it sit for three minutes. Then use a horsehair shine brush to polish and remove excess cream.

For a high shine, use a wax paste instead of shoe cream. “Rub the wax on, let it dry 15 seconds, and buff it off.” Get a paste that matches the color of your leather. To prevent a black streak of polish showing up on your brown shoes, use a different brush for each color. If you have three colors, get three brushes. Wax, however, clogs the leather’s pores, making it dry out faster

Water Protecting & Repair:

Every three to six months, add a waterproofing spray after conditioning a pair of shoes.  “They need just a very thin coat, one delicate shot right over them.” If you see water stains on unprotected shoes, misting the entire shoe with water may help even out the color by changing it to match the stain.

Extra:

  • Help maintain the shoe’s shape and soak up lingering sweat or rain with a cedar shoe tree form. 
  • Store your shoes in cloth shoe bags to keep them from getting dusty.
  • If your shoes get soaked, air-dry in a spot with good airflow.
    • While drying them over a vent works, the quick change from soaked to hot can dry out your leather and require more conditioner.

How to repair broken leather shoes:

 

Conclusion-

 Thank you for reading Suits Avenue’s blog! Today we talked about leather shoes, where they come from, what they’re made of, how they’re made, colored and sewed 🙂 

Stop into the store today to look at our new pairs!

Find us, Follow us, and like us on FACEBOOK for latest fashion Trends…

 

Click and SHARE…We would love to help your friends look smart…🕺💃 

If you have any

🐑 All about wool🐑

Introduction: Welcome to Suits Avenue’s Blog! Today we are going to go over the ins and outs of wool!! See our table of contents below

Read More »
Posted on Leave a comment

🤵🏿 How a Suit should fit! Before you buy💰

Welcome! To

Today we are going to talk about the way a suit should fit and what is best for different body types! Different styles of suits will fit on your body differently… and if your suit is just to big or just to small the whole look will be off and unprofessional! Check out our table of contents below to see what all we cover!

Table of Contents:

  • The Fit
  • The way shoulders should feel
  • The way pant bottoms should look
  • The Button Rules
  • The way a jacket collar should work
  • The way arm holes should feel and look.
  • Types of Suits

When you try on a suit, try to stand in your “Natural stance” this would be how you stand the most often, just let your body stand natural, your muscle memory will help you with this.  Check out the major key points below to look at to really be sure before buying.

Italian and Turkish Suits
Suits Avenue Shoulders first

Shoulders-

A well-fitted shoulder lies flat. The seam on top of the shoulder should be the same length as the bone under it, and should meet the sleeve of the suit right where your arm meets your shoulder.

If the seam that connects the sleeve to the jacket is hiked up along your shoulder bone, or dangling down on your upper bicep, the jacket is never going to sit properly. In these instances, you’ll see “ripple effects” that create lumps or wrinkles on the sleeve and the top of the jacket. If you can’t move your arms well, or if you cannot pinch just the jacket, it is too small. If the shoulder seam of the jacket is below your shoulder, or the sleeves run farther than 1/2 an inch past your wrist than the jacket is too big.

Pant Bottoms-

The trouser break is the bottom of your pants, below the pants cuff. Pants have a couple signs of them being too big or too small. Sometimes the most obvious one is the trouser break, they should rest slightly on the top of your shoes.  If it doesn’t go to the top of your shoes it is too small, and if it goes below the middle of your heel it is too big. You don’t want your pant bottoms to drag on the ground, you will step on them, they will rip and tear and it looks tacky. Looking Tacky isn’t ideal when wearing a suit!

Button Rules-

 

  • The one-button single-breasted suit jacket: Generally used on a tuxedo. These jackets are suited to lean men and worn for black tie events. They are not versatile.
  • The two-button single-breasted suit jacket: Is one of the most classic looks in men’s fashion. This style of suit looks good on all body types.
    The cut of the suit makes just about every man’s frame look longer. Two-button suits are great for both social and business events.
  • The three-button single-breasted suit jacket: Because of the arrangement of the buttons – three button suit jackets suit taller men.

 

A word on the rules of buttoning a single breasted jacket:

  • One button: Always closed except when sitting.
  • Two buttons: Use the top one and leave the second button undone.
  • Three buttons: Button the center and top ones and leave the third button undone.

Never button the bottom button of a suit jacket.

Jacket Collar-

The jacket collar should rest easily on the back on your neck and shoulders. If it hangs farther back, or is bunched up causing “ripples” behind your neck, the jacket is too big. If it is tight and has little scrunches the jacket is too small. The problem is when you stand, most jackets look good, the issue starts when you start moving when you lift your arms and you still want that jacket collar to sit tight against your shirt collar. So your natural movements, sit down, move your arms, drink something from a bottle, maybe eat, and if it stays in the back and it stays by your shirt tips, you know you’ve got a well-fitting collar.

When your jacket is buttoned make sure it isn’t making an “x” as shown above. This means the jacket is too tight! It is pulling all the extra fabric it can find to make the button fit.

Armholes

Most armholes in suits are too big because suits are industrially made and they want to have a one size that fits it all, the problem is if you have huge arm holes, it may seem like it’s more comfortable but it actually isn’t because as soon as you move, your entire jacket moves with you and constricts you. On the other hand, if you have a tight armhole that ends just below your armpit, you can easily move and comfortably wave for a cab and look dapper all day without feeling constricted. If you have an armhole that is too small, you’ll see wrinkles on the sleeve head and it also constricts you when you reach forward because you reach a point here that just makes it impossible to reach forward.

Types of suits-

Imported Boys Blazers

Imported Boys Blazers

singlebreasted item has a narrow overlap and only one column of buttons. 

doublebreasted garment is a coat, jacket, or vest with wide, overlapping front flaps which has on its front two symmetrical columns of buttons. Double-breasted suits have a more sophisticated look.

A lounge suit is basically just a little looser. It is more of a hipster look, you’d wear this to class after stopping and studying for your test at Starbucks drinking a cappuccino.

Italian and Turkish Suits

Business suits are usually a navy blue or a shade of grey, but sometimes on a more serious note they are black. 

Your suit should fit correctly of course, but the color also plays a huge roll in how serious or not you look.

 In a Mandarin collar suit – the collar is a short unfolded stand-up style on a shirt or jacket. … The edges of the collar either barely meet at the center front or overlap slightly. They are usuallly worn by someone with a religious education or responsibility. 

Italian and Turkish Suits

Wedding suits are commonly known as Tuxedos. Tuxedos are considered evening wear, and if you’re having a brunch or daytime wedding, a suit will be more appropriate. If your wedding starts during the day but ends in the evening, either a suitor a tuxedo will make a fine choice. If the wedding or event is in the evening a tuxedo is a fancy and fine way to make your way into the spot light and impress all.

A dinner suit is also commonly known as “The Black Tie Dress Code” This just means you are dressing up to feast with your friends

Conclusion-

In this blog we talked about the main different types of suits and how they should rest on the main parts of your body. Following these tips will help you feel more confident in the way your suits feels and fits!
If you still have more questions feel free to come into the store and one of the girls would love to help you!

Find us, Follow us, and like us on FACEBOOK for latest fashion Trends…

 

Click and SHARE…We would love to help your friends look smart…🕺💃 

If you have any questions

🐑 All about wool🐑

Introduction: Welcome to Suits Avenue’s Blog! Today we are going to go over the ins and outs of wool!! See our table of contents below

Read More »