Today we are going to talk about the way a suit should fit and what is best for different body types! Different styles of suits will fit on your body differently… and if your suit is just to big or just to small the whole look will be off and unprofessional! Check out our table of contents below to see what all we cover!
Table of Contents:
- The Fit
- The way shoulders should feel
- The way pant bottoms should look
- The Button Rules
- The way a jacket collar should work
- The way arm holes should feel and look.
- Types of Suits
When you try on a suit, try to stand in your “Natural stance” this would be how you stand the most often, just let your body stand natural, your muscle memory will help you with this. Check out the major key points below to look at to really be sure before buying.
A well-fitted shoulder lies flat. The seam on top of the shoulder should be the same length as the bone under it, and should meet the sleeve of the suit right where your arm meets your shoulder.
If the seam that connects the sleeve to the jacket is hiked up along your shoulder bone, or dangling down on your upper bicep, the jacket is never going to sit properly. In these instances, you’ll see “ripple effects” that create lumps or wrinkles on the sleeve and the top of the jacket. If you can’t move your arms well, or if you cannot pinch just the jacket, it is too small. If the shoulder seam of the jacket is below your shoulder, or the sleeves run farther than 1/2 an inch past your wrist than the jacket is too big.
The trouser break is the bottom of your pants, below the pants cuff. Pants have a couple signs of them being too big or too small. Sometimes the most obvious one is the trouser break, they should rest slightly on the top of your shoes. If it doesn’t go to the top of your shoes it is too small, and if it goes below the middle of your heel it is too big. You don’t want your pant bottoms to drag on the ground, you will step on them, they will rip and tear and it looks tacky. Looking Tacky isn’t ideal when wearing a suit!
- The one-button single-breasted suit jacket: Generally used on a tuxedo. These jackets are suited to lean men and worn for black tie events. They are not versatile.
- The two-button single-breasted suit jacket: Is one of the most classic looks in men’s fashion. This style of suit looks good on all body types.
The cut of the suit makes just about every man’s frame look longer. Two-button suits are great for both social and business events.
- The three-button single-breasted suit jacket: Because of the arrangement of the buttons – three button suit jackets suit taller men.
A word on the rules of buttoning a single breasted jacket:
- One button: Always closed except when sitting.
- Two buttons: Use the top one and leave the second button undone.
- Three buttons: Button the center and top ones and leave the third button undone.
Never button the bottom button of a suit jacket.
The jacket collar should rest easily on the back on your neck and shoulders. If it hangs farther back, or is bunched up causing “ripples” behind your neck, the jacket is too big. If it is tight and has little scrunches the jacket is too small. The problem is when you stand, most jackets look good, the issue starts when you start moving when you lift your arms and you still want that jacket collar to sit tight against your shirt collar. So your natural movements, sit down, move your arms, drink something from a bottle, maybe eat, and if it stays in the back and it stays by your shirt tips, you know you’ve got a well-fitting collar.
When your jacket is buttoned make sure it isn’t making an “x” as shown above. This means the jacket is too tight! It is pulling all the extra fabric it can find to make the button fit.
Most armholes in suits are too big because suits are industrially made and they want to have a one size that fits it all, the problem is if you have huge arm holes, it may seem like it’s more comfortable but it actually isn’t because as soon as you move, your entire jacket moves with you and constricts you. On the other hand, if you have a tight armhole that ends just below your armpit, you can easily move and comfortably wave for a cab and look dapper all day without feeling constricted. If you have an armhole that is too small, you’ll see wrinkles on the sleeve head and it also constricts you when you reach forward because you reach a point here that just makes it impossible to reach forward.
Types of suits-
A single–breasted item has a narrow overlap and only one column of buttons.
A double–breasted garment is a coat, jacket, or vest with wide, overlapping front flaps which has on its front two symmetrical columns of buttons. Double-breasted suits have a more sophisticated look.
A lounge suit is basically just a little looser. It is more of a hipster look, you’d wear this to class after stopping and studying for your test at Starbucks drinking a cappuccino.
Business suits are usually a navy blue or a shade of grey, but sometimes on a more serious note they are black.
Your suit should fit correctly of course, but the color also plays a huge roll in how serious or not you look.
In a Mandarin collar suit – the collar is a short unfolded stand-up style on a shirt or jacket. … The edges of the collar either barely meet at the center front or overlap slightly. They are usuallly worn by someone with a religious education or responsibility.
Wedding suits are commonly known as Tuxedos. Tuxedos are considered evening wear, and if you’re having a brunch or daytime wedding, a suit will be more appropriate. If your wedding starts during the day but ends in the evening, either a suitor a tuxedo will make a fine choice. If the wedding or event is in the evening a tuxedo is a fancy and fine way to make your way into the spot light and impress all.
A dinner suit is also commonly known as “The Black Tie Dress Code” This just means you are dressing up to feast with your friends
If you still have more questions feel free to come into the store and one of the girls would love to help you!
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